Maine Outdoor Journal

I wasn’t planning to go to Baxter State Park this fall. But when a planned thru-hike of the 110-mile Metacomet-Monadnock Trail south to north across Massachusetts fell through I was stuck for a place to go for a longish October backpack.

Then it hit me: Baxter and the Freezeout Trail! I’d been summer camping at South Branch Pond and winter camping at Trout Brook Farm, but I’d never set foot into that big swath of backcountry (almost 30,000 acres) known as the Scientific Forest Management Area (the only place in the park where timber harvesting is allowed).

Yep, done deal: I would travel to Baxter and hike the Freezeout Trail for a week. Actually, starting from Trout Brook Campground, I would combine the Freezeout Trail, Frost Pond Trail and Wadleigh Brook Trail for a 35-mile loop hike that would include three lakes, two ponds, a host of streams, one moose and no people. Nada. And I would travel without a tent, staying in park lean-tos during my 6-day, 5-night adventure.

I called the park and made reservations, got my gear and groceries together, and a couple days later made the 4-hour drive from Bowdoin to the Matagamon gate. Arrived at Trout Brook Campground around 5 p.m. on Saturday, October 10. Built a fire, cooked up some Dinty Moore beef stew, cracked a beer(s) and relaxed in my aloneness, ready or not for a week in the north woods on my own.

Sun, Oct 11 – Frost Pond

Moped around camp this morning doing a lot of not much. Cold and gray weather not terribly conducive to a get-up-and-go attitude. Especially when you’re going to be on your own for the better part of the week. Finally got out of my own way around 10:30 a.m. (the inertia was brutal), moved the van down to the trailhead parking area, strapped on the pack, signed the register, and struck off. Crossed Trout Brook first thing on a footbridge. Colors real nice. Strode along on the wide Freezeout Trail charged up about the solo journey yet a bit lonely too. Experience with this kind of thing told me it was just going to take time to settle into it. Crossed a few streams and detoured briefly around a beaver dam. Then arrived at the big sawdust pile on the shore of Matagamon Lake. It’s the site of – you guessed it – an old sawmill. The pile must 200 feet x 200 feet anyway, and I don’t know how deep, but a lot I’ll bet. Walked out into the middle of it on the soft surface for a view over the lake. Ahead on the trail I hit the turn-off for Frost Pond. 4.3 miles in something like 90 minutes. Just like that without really even trying. Another hour on narrow trail and I was at Frost Pond and its cozy log shelter. Unpacked and got settled in for the night, even though it was only 1 p.m. Brewed tea and soup and had some lunch. Explored the area for awhile. Then read back at the shelter. Cold, gusty wind blew in over the pond. Even holed up in the lee of the shelter I couldn’t escape it. It was 3 in the afternoon and I was freezing! Nothing else to do but get into my sleeping and put another pot to boil on the stove. And that’s pretty much how the rest of the day went. Books (I had three with me), hot drinks, stare out at the pond, listen to the wind, daydream, think, doze. Remembered my mini short wave radio that I almost never carry, but did on this trip just for a little company. Turned it on and picked up a few stations. A little news, some music… all good for curing the solitary blues. Later on picked up some of the Patriots game and then the baseball playoffs. Cool. Sunset on the pond, then supper in bed. Brrrr! To sleep by 8:30 p.m.

Mon, Oct 12 – Hudson Pond

Chilly start to the day, 36F at 9 a.m. The wind blew all last night, and continued throughout the day today. Colorful hike to Wadleigh Mountain, a low ridgeline about 1,250' in elevation. Nice trail walking along the ridge on soft needles. Views south to the Traveler Mountain group, Black Cat Mountain and the notch that holds South Branch Pond. Crossed a gravel road that wasn't on my map before reaching junction with the Wadleigh Brook Trail. Turned north and followed, more or less, the course of Wadleigh Brook all afternoon. A red flash just up the trail turned out to be a pileated woodpecker! Two grouse at trailside, in separate incidents, scared the poop out of me. The trail through here was rough underfoot, and with few landmarks, made for a long afternoon. Finally emerged at a second gravel road – this one on the map – and the Blunder Bog Picnic Shelter, my stop for a late lunch. The final 1.1 miles into Hudson Pond and its lean-to was interesting, with two major beaver flowages to cross. The first one I crossed on balancing on floating bog bridges. Quite acrobatic I'd say for this crusty hiker, and a bit like old time log rolling except I thankfully didn't go over. At the second beaver interruption it was no go. I waded out a few feet and saw that I would soon be over my head in the murky water if I tried to reach the bog bridges out there, which were floating much like the others anyway. Hmmm. Back to "shore", discovered pink flagging leading left into thick fir. I pushed and shoved my way through for a good 1/4 mile before the flagged way led me to a relatively dry crossing. Beyond, passed by an area of recent logging activity, something you wouldn't expect in Baxter Park, but this was the Scientific Forest Management Area where timber harvesting is and has always been allowed per Percival Baxter in the interest of good forestry science. Arrived at the lean-to tucked into the woods above Hudson Pond at 3:30 p.m. Wind died completely and for once the woods were quiet. Splashing noises revealed a cow moose on the far side of the pond. Sat and watched her for quite awhile. Back at the shelter settled in and consumed several pots of tea and soup. Only 40F I crawled into my sleeping bag to read. Made one more trip to the pond to watch the setting sun turn the pond and surrounding forest a warm orange. A flock of mergansers swam happily past as if to wish me a good evening.

Tues, Oct 13 – Webster Lake

Cold sleet and rain falling at 7 a.m. Had only 4.5 miles to hike today so snoozed and lazed about until 10. Finally up, but couldn’t find the privy so had to dig a cat hole in the bushes. Packed in half an hour and was off at 10:45 a.m. Hiked along the shore of the pond, then veered off up into the woods. Passed by several more areas of old SFMA harvesting activity. Crossed Hudson Brook then intersected with the Freezeout Trail. The FO Trail is an old tote road slowly reverting back to the deep forest. An easy gradual uphill 2.5 mile walk to Webster Lake. Passed over sections of old corduroy road that must be a hundred years old! Webster Stream flowed off to my right, but I was rarely close to it. Arrived at Webster Lake and its shorefront lean-to just before 1 p.m. A beautiful spot! Still raining though, and 35F. Yuck. Cozy shelter, grassy lawn, fire pit, benches and picnic table, all right on the lake shore. And – bonus! – a nice privy. Followed the long gravel beach down to the outlet of Webster Stream and hung for a bit. Back at the shelter had hot soup and tea, salami and cheese and other snacks. A park canoe lay up on shore, but I wasn’t up for paddling in this weather. Too bad. With a long cold afternoon ahead of me I got in my bag and read, occasionally looking out to enjoy the great view. Dinner was pepper steak and rice. Delish! Nothing like a meal from a foil packet! Finished Hemingway book of short stories. Lights out at 9 p.m.

Tues, Oct 14 – East Branch Penobscot River

Woke at 8 a.m. after sleeping 11 hours. 11 hours! Sky is bright blue, air is a cold 26F. Waves are lapping at the lake shore and there’s a slight wind. Frost on the grass. It’s breakfast in bed again… coffee and oatmeal. And a few more pages of my book on sailing around the British Isles. Still loving the view over the lake. The sun stayed out for about an hour. Walked with fleece and gloves on most of the day. One hour back to junction with Wadleigh Brook Trail. Another hour to Webster Stream Lean-to and lunch. Great blue heron on a rock in stream. The trail after the shelter is higher and drier and more closely follows the stream. Side trail leads a hundred yards to Grand Pitch Falls, just a roaring today. Mighty pretty spot. Short half mile beyond is junction and Little East Branch Lean-to. Webster Stream and East Branch of the Penobscot River meet before flowing into Matagamon Lake. Sturdy log shelter. Well used campsite. Spent the afternoon doing the usual by now: poked around the campsite, consumed pots of soup and tea, and read a lot. Spaghetti for supper. 34F at bedtime at 8:30 p.m.

Wed, Oct 15 – Hike out to Trout Brook and home

Awoke to 24F temps. Cold and still. Sun coming up through the trees. Sounds of the rivers flowing. Robins flitting about. Squirrels squealing and darting around. Packed and out by 9. Easy wide tote road trail out along Matagamon Lake. Northwest Cove campsite a spot to note. Sauntered along dreamy like in the chill air, comfortable though as I walked along. Stopped often to enjoy the colors, breathe in the cool, clear air, and revel in the five days spent out here alone in the woods. Passed junction to Frost Pond. Detoured briefly at the sawdust pile where the big red maple had lost a few more leaves. Seemed like no time at all (but it was more than an hour anyway) came to side trails for Trout Brook Lean-to and walk-in campsites. Short distance beyond crossed Trout Brook on footbridge and arrived at the van. A fine sight after a week’s time away. Dropped pack, changes clothes, hopped in and headed off for the park gate. Chatted with the ranger at the gate on the way out, first person I’d talked to all week. Then I was road bound, headed for Bowdoin and home. A most excellent autumn hike under my belt.

Info: Baxter State Park Authority